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Preserving Recipes

Fall/ Preserving Recipes

Spiced Cranberry Sauce

Previously I wrote about my favorite cranberry sauce, a recipe from Canadian Living. It is excellent using apple juice as the cooking liquid and spicing up the liquid to impart the sauce with a wonderful rich spicy-orange flavour. Whether you use this recipe to can cranberry sauce for the year, or you are making a single recipe for this Thanksgiving dinner, the principle of spicing things up can apply either way.

It is always necessary to use a liquid in which to cook the cranberries for a sauce. Apple juice, half orange juice and water, or all water. Whatever liquid you use can be spiced up to impart flavour during the cooking process. 

Thanksgiving is the time to celebrate the harvest and to give thanks to those who grow our food and to those who prepare our meals. Happy Thanksgiving to all!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

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Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 bag cranberries washed
  • 1 tsp grated orange peel
  • Spice bag: In cheesecloth add 2-inch piece cinnamon, 1 star anise, 3 cloves, 2 cardamon pods or one whole allspice. Tie the cheesecloth around the spices and secure.

Instructions

1

In a small saucepan, add the spice bag to the water.

2

Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

3

Add cranberries, grated orange peel and sugar, and bring to a boil.

4

Boil for about 10 minutes.

5

Remove spice bag and cool the sauce.

6

Then refrigerate until ready to use. The addition of spices to the cooking liquid really takes the sauce from good to great!

Fall/ Preserving Recipes

Zucchini Mania

Zucchini Pancakes

This summer has been amazing for zucchini. As always, I’m interested in the story of food. Summer squash is the broad category of tender gourds which grow in summer. Zucchini is a member of that family, but it also includes yellow, Crookneck and Pattypan squash among others. These vegetables were brought to North America in the mid 1500s by Italians. No surprise there. They have great versatility in the kitchen.

In the last weeks I’ve canned zucchini relish & tangy and sweet zucchini & yellow squash pickles; I’ve baked and frozen several zucchini breads; I’ve made salads, grilled them, sauteed them with and without pasta; I’ve dehydrated zucchini chips and have frozen grated amounts that will be useful for an impromptu zucchini bread in winter. I’ve also given away a lot! Today, I want to focus on two recipes I’ve recently made: First is zucchini lasagna and the second zucchini pancakes. Even my husband, a staunch carnivore and one who claims to be allergic to all vegetables except corn and potatoes, thought they were good!

For the lasagna, I used my canned marinara sauce, but any tomato sauce will do. I had a few oven-ready noodles, so I threw them in, but they really are optional. The zucchini/yellow squash act like noodles. As with any lasagna recipe, there are various layers. In this case, a layer of ricotta mixture and a layer of creamed Swiss chard and leeks from the garden. Mozzarella, parmesan and off you go to a great meal now or in winter. Check out the full recipe on my webite.

So many ways to use and preserve summer squash. From stuffed blossoms, to pickles, baked goods, pasta and more, these gourds provide a year-round healthy, low-calorie vegetable for even the most vegetable-averse folks!!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Zucchini Pancakes

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Ingredients

  • These are delicious! Freeze them for a great side-dish or even as a vegetarian option.
  • 1 pound summer squash (use zucchini, yellow squash or other)
  • Wash and cut squash avoiding seeds. Then weigh the 1 lb.
  • Grate the squash using a large-hole box grater. Lightly salt and put it in a sieve over a bowl for at least 20 minutes. Then squeeze vigorously to remove moisture.
  • 2 eggs lightly beaten
  • 1/5 tsp pepper, 1/5 tsp salt
  • 1/3 cup organic or gluten free flour
  • 3-4 chopped green onions
  • 1/3 cup chopped parsley
  • ½ mixed herbs (I used tarragon and basil but use what the garden provides)
  • 4 oz cheese (I used feta crumbled but you could substitute grated cheddar, gruyere, or any other cheese)

Instructions

1

Mix drained zucchini with all ingredients. Put a couple of tablespoons of cooking oil in the sauté pan and drop ‘batter’ by tablespoons into the hot pan. Cook about 3-4 minutes a side until brown. Place on a parchment lined cookie sheet and sprinkle with finishing salt. Serve warm or at room temperature. Or, cool completely and freeze.

Fall/ Preserving Recipes

Transitioning to Fall

Apple-Rhubarb Chutney (adapted from Bernardin)

Fall is just around the corner. That means cool weather preserving with tomatoes and Fall fruits. This week, I harvested some rhubarb (the vegetable that keeps on giving) and combined it with apples for a truly Fall inspired chutney with dried cranberries. Nothing says transition more than combining spring and Fall fruits!

As I prepared the apples for the chutney, I treated them to prevent oxidization. That reminded me of a woman in the grocery store who was asking whether citric acid could be used as a substitute for ascorbic acid. I thought it might be useful to explore that question.

There are two reasons to use acids: First to prevent browning or oxidation. And second to acidify foods that are not naturally acidic enough to be safely preserved.

Oxidation is a naturally occurring phenomenon that happens when pale fruits and vegetables are exposed to oxygen. Apples, pears, peaches, and some vegetables will turn a brownish colour in the presence of air. Treating them with acid prevents this from happening.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Six crushed Vitamin C tablets in 2 litres of water will do the trick to prevent browning. The tablets are easily available in pharmacies. A 10-minute dunk in the acid/water bath will help hold the colour of fruit as you prepare the recipe.

Citric Acid can also be used to prevent oxidation with cut fruit or as a pre-treatment for frozen or dried fruit. Alternatively, using lemon juice in a solution of ¼ cup lemon juice to 2 litres of water will provide an effective solution for prevent oxidation. Many people choose to use Fruit Fresh, a commercial anti-browning agent that contains citric and ascorbic acids and silicon dioxide. I like lemon juice as it contains both ascorbic and citric acid and it’s natural!

Citric vs Ascorbic Acid

The question is whether these two acids can be used interchangeably? The answer is NO. While citric acid can be used as an anti-browning agent, it is mostly used to lower pH in foods as it is far more acidic than ascorbic acid. For example, tomatoes, which hover around the 4.6 pH level need to be acidified for safe canning. Citric acid or lemon juice are effective for this purpose. Ascorbic acid is a strong antioxidant and preserver of colour but is not used alone to acidify foods. As always, use authoritative recipes that will recommend the type and amount of acid to prevent oxidation or to properly acidify food.

Transitioning to Fall brings a whole new life to the preserving kitchen. Aromas of spice, mixed with fruit, tomato bubbling with vegetables for chili sauce. It feels like a new season is upon us.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Apple-Rhubarb Chutney (adapted from Bernardin)

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Ingredients

  • 4 cups diced peeled and cored apples treated to prevent oxidation. I used Sunrise Apples and Granny Smith.
  • 2 cup chopped rhubarb
  • ½ cup water
  • Zest and juice of one lemon.
  • ½ cup dried cranberries or use raisins, currants, dried cherries, or blueberries
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • ½ tsp each nutmeg and ground allspice

Instructions

1

After draining apples, combine with rhubarb, sugar, water and lemon juice and zest. Boil gently for 15 minutes. Add dried fruit and spices. Continue gently boiling for another 15 minutes until the chutney thickens. Ladle into 4 250ml hot jars leaving a ½ inch headspace. Remove bubbles and adjust headspace. Clean rims and affix lids and rings to finger-tip tight. Process in a water-bath or steam canner for 10 minutes adjusting for altitude. Allow jars to rest for 5 minutes before removing to a heat-proof surface.

Preserving Recipes/ Summer

Heavenly Apricots

Heavenly Apricots

I was thrilled to receive a large crate of apricots this week. There’s no denying the gorgeous blush of a rosy ripe apricot. Of course, this has meant many batches of various apricot-related preserves. I’ll share some things I’ve learned along the way, but first, about the history of apricots.

The primary origin of apricots is China likely imported to Europe during Roman times where it remains today a treasured staple. It is thought the Franciscan Brothers began apricot production in California 2-300 years ago. Like California, southern BC, Ontario, and Quebec are highly suitable for growing these fruits.

This week I have made 18 lbs of apricot items.  Some recipes call for blanching and peeling apricots! Waste of time in my opinion. The skins dissolve into the jam. In previous years I confess to occasionally making apricot jam with commercial pectin. Don’t bother. Frankly, it destroys the beauty of the jam. Although apricots are relatively low in pectin and need the long-boil method for cooking, you can boost pectin with lemon juice or add grated high pectin apple. The ratio of fruit to sugar varies between recipes, but most people prefer a slightly tart apricot jam. To achieve this, a ratio of 3 parts fruit to 1 part sugar is suggested. If you like it sweeter, increase the sugar (2:1 or even 1:1 if you really like it sweet!). Using the long-boil method always raises the question about when the jam is set. I use the belt and suspenders approach: A candy thermometer at about 217 and I put soup spoons in the freezer to check the set by dipping the frozen spoons into the jam and seeing if it ‘wrinkles” or sheets off the spoon as opposed to dripping.

One recipe I made this week reminds me of France. I love lavender and grow a lot of it. So, using it to infuse the apricot jam seems like a natural. This recipe is modified from one in the Ball New Book of Canning. I simply reduced the sugar which called for a 1:1 ratio which I consider too sweet.

David Leibowitz, chef/author living in Paris says nothing excites the French more than summer apricot jam! To this point, my good friend says it’s unimaginable to think about a croissant without apricot jam! If you’re in the mood to be transported to France, buy some Chef Patrick frozen croissants (he’s from Thornbury) and bake them in your own oven topped with your apricots preserves! Bon Appetit!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Lavender Infused Apricot Jam

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Ingredients

  • 3 lb ripe apricots, washed, stones removed and chopped
  • 3 cups sugar
  • 3 TBSP bottled lemon juice
  • 4 tsp dried lavender flowers wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with a string to attach to the pot.

Instructions

1

Place chopped apricots, sugar, lemon juice in a bowl or Dutch oven. Stir. Add in the lavender and squish it around to ensure it is moistened. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The maceration helps reduce cooking time and starts the infusion of the lavender.

2

Next day bring the pot to a boil. Reduce heat and boil gently for about 40 minutes or until the jam is set. Remove the lavender bag. Fill jars with ¼ inch headspace. Wipe rims. Attach lids and rings to finger-tip tight. Process jars in a water-bath or steam canner for 10 minutes adjusting for altitude. Rest 5 minutes. Remove from canners and allow jars to cool for 24 hrs. Check seals. Any unsealed jars can be refrigerated and eaten.

Notes

Yield is about 5 jars (250 ml)

Preserving Recipes/ Summer

Strawberry Season

strawberry

This year I’ve been making many variations of strawberry-related preserves. From straight-up strawberry to strawberry-rhubarb, strawberry with balsamic vinegar and cracked black pepper, strawberry-raspberry, and the list goes on. My new favorite recipe is strawberry-vanilla Jam. The vanilla enhances the strawberry flavour, and it is a great recipe for illustrating techniques for making jam without commercial pectin.

What a great strawberry season this year. I’ve enjoyed variations on the strawberry theme and have been very happy with the addition of vanilla to the jam. It has a lovely flavour.

Why this recipe works:

Berries: Choose ripe but not over-ripe berries. Pectin levels are highest when ripe, but pectin diminishes quickly as the berries age.

Sugar Ratio: Sugar is critical for quality and for achieving a ‘set’ of the jam. As much as no/low sugar commercial pectins are popular these days, the fact is that sugar is necessary for a quality jam that is suitable for long-term storage.

Lemon Juice: Most recipes include the addition of bottled lemon juice. The lemon juice is necessary to help the pectin set. It also brightens the flavour.

Maceration: This process dramatically improves the set of the jam and guarantees a beautifully distributed fruit. No floating fruit problem!

Natural Pectin Boost: The grated Granny Smith apple is undetectable in the jam, but it helps speed up cooking time and improves gelling.

Happy summer and Happy canning everyone!

Comments and Questions?
preservingwithmartha@gmail.com
www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Strawberry-Vanilla Jam

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Serves: Yield: about 5 cups

Ingredients

  • 8 cups ripe strawberries cleaned, trimmed, quartered and lightly crushed
  • 6 cups sugar*
  • ¼ cup lemon juice
  • 1 Granny Smith apple peeled and grated
  • ½ vanilla bean split or 2 tsp pure vanilla extract

Instructions

1

Combine the berries, sugar, lemon juice and vanilla in a bowl.

2

Mix well and allow to rest for several hours or over-night.

3

Place the mixture in a large Dutch oven or pot and add grated apple. Stir.

4

Bring to a boil and cook until the set point is reached.

5

Ladle into hot jars, debubble, clean rims and affix lids and rings to finger-tip tight.

6

Process in a boiling water bath or atmospheric steam canner for 10 minutes. Allow to rest for 5 minutes.

7

Remove from canner and place on a heat proof surface for 24 hours.

8

Check seals, label, and store.

Notes

You can reduce sugar to 4 cups without affecting the set or long-term storage

Preserving Recipes/ Summer

Smoked Whitefish Salad on Zucchini Pancakes with Pickled Red Onion

Smoked Whitefish Salad on Zucchini Pancakes with Pickled Red Onion

Smoked Whitefish Salad on Zucchini Pancakes with Pickled Red Onion

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Ingredients

  • Salad
  • 1 lb smoked Whitefish or other firm smoked fish, skinned, flesh broken into bite-size pieces, pin bones removed
  • ½ tsp lemon zest
  • 1 medium celery stalk finely chopped
  • ½ cup red onion minced
  • heaping ½ cup of mayonnaise
  • 1 TBSP lemon juice
  • Pickled Red Onions (quick pickle)
  • 2-3 small red onions, sliced thinly
  • ½ cup red wine vinegar
  • 2 TBSP lime juice
  • 1.5 TBSP sugar
  • ½ TBSP pickling or sea salt
  • Pinch of mustard seeds, coriander seeds, peppercorns
  • Zucchini Pancakes
  • 3 medium zucchini
  • 1 small onion finely diced
  • 2 eggs
  • ¾ tsp salt
  • Pinch of pepper
  • ½ cup flour (organic or gluten free)
  • ½ tsp baking powder
  • Grapeseed oil for frying

Instructions

Salad

1

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Smoked fish tastes slightly salty so taste the salad as you season it for accuracy.

Pickled Red Onions (quick pickle)

2

In a saucepan, combine vinegar, lime juice, sugar, salt, and spices. Bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cook until sugar and salt are dissolved. Cool. Once cool pour liquid over the sliced onions and refrigerate for 2 hours or up to two days.

Zucchini Pancakes

3

Grate the zucchini using a box grater or food processor. Place in a sieve and lightly salt it. Let it rest for 15 minutes. Squeeze the zucchini to extract liquid. Mix the zucchini and all other ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine.

4

Heat the oil and fry the pancakes using about one TBSP per pancake. You can make them smaller for appetizers if you like. Fry until brown (about 3 minutes), flip and repeat. To reheat place in the 400 oven for 10 minutes. These can be served warm or at room temperature. They also freeze very well.

Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Let’s Celebrate

It is the season for celebration. And that means great food and indulgences! A big part of preserving is using what you make in recipes. This is my favourite Christmas holiday cake. It is beautiful, delicious, flexible, naturally gluten-free, and a crowd-pleaser.

Celebrate the season with special gifts from the pantry and desserts that are vehicles for using your own preserves. Merry Christmas to those who celebrate and Happy Holidays to all.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Celebration Cake - Genoise: (the cake) & Whipped Cream Filling

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Ingredients

  • 5 cups nuts (hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts, pistachios). I am using locally grown hazelnuts toasted in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes, cooled and skins removed. In a food processor, chop the nuts with 6-8 pulses, adding ¼ cup sugar as you go. Place mixture into a bowl.
  • Separate 5 eggs. Whisk together the yolks and ¼ cup sugar. Add yolk mixture to the nut mixture.
  • Whip the egg whites until stiff, adding a ¼ cup sugar gradually. Add about ¼ of the whites to the nut mixture to lighten. Then gently fold in the whites until mixed.
  • Pour the batter into a rimmed cookie sheet lined with parchment that has a light sprinkling of flour or corn starch. Spread evenly across the cookie sheet.
  • Bake in a 350 oven for 15 to 20 minutes until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and cool. Sprinkle cake with 1 TBSP icing sugar. Let it cool completely. Lightly cover the cake with 1 TBSP icing sugar. Place a tea towel over top and flip it. Gently remove parchment.
  •     
  • Whipped Cream Filling - Beat 1 cup whipping cream, adding in 1 TBSP icing sugar and 1 TBSP liqueur (I used Grand Marnier but Frangelico would be great)
  • Spread the whipped cream across the cake keeping some for decorating later.
  • With the cake lying horizontally, cut the cake into 2-inch strips. Take each slice, cut side down, and wrap it around itself like making a cinnamon roll. Follow with each slice making a progressively larger snail-like pattern.
  • Decorate the top with canned and/or fresh fruit. Drain canned fruit very well. I add my canned pears and fresh fruit.
  • Glaze the fruit to keep it beautifully shiny and fresh. I use my apple jelly as a glaze for many things. Just melt a TBSP and brush on the fruit.
Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Gravlax: A Holiday Treat

The holidays generally bring people together to celebrate. What could be more special than preparing Gravlax for such an occasion? Gravlax is a Scandinavian method of curing salmon (lax) using salt, sugar, and a generous dose of herbs, often dill. “Grava” means ‘to bury’ which is exactly what is done with the salmon. This ancient method of food preservation has been recorded since the 14th century.

People often wonder what the difference is between gravlax, lox, smoked salmon, and Nova. Lox, is a Yiddish word for salmon and is a method of curing using salt alone which contrasts to the salt/sugar cure of gravlax. Smoked salmon is smoked either hot or cold depending on the desired texture. Hot smoked salmon is drier and flakier than cold smoked. And Nova, refers to salmon from Nova Scotia that is first cured and then smoked. Let’s face it, all forms of preserved salmon or other fish makes for a wonderful and nutritious treat.

Gravlax is very simple to make. The gravading process of curing makes for a dense, silky texture to the salmon and while doing so increases the amino acid content by 5% boosting the incredible health benefits of the fish. The curing extends the shelf life of the fish. If the cured fish is vacuum packed and frozen, it will be good for several months. Thaw in the fridge. Frozen salmon can be used to prepare gravlax but if you use frozen fish, don’t refreeze it after curing.

Holidays and parties are heading our way. Try gravlax as a treat for the family or friends.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Gravlax (adapted from Test Kitchens of America)

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Ingredients

  • 1 lb centre cut Grade A salmon, the fattier the better, skin on
  • 1/3 cup light brown sugar
  • ¼ cup Kosher salt
  • A large bunch of dill coarsely chopped
  • 1 tbsp vodka, gin, bourbon, or brandy

Instructions

1

Mix salt and sugar in a bowl. Chop dill and set aside. Remove any pin bones from the salmon and place it, skin down in a glass baking pan. Rub the fish with the alcohol (this is optional but adds to flavour and hold the salt/sugar better). Put the salt and sugar mixture on top of salmon, burying it. Cover with the dill. Place plastic wrap on top. Put a smaller pan on top with a weight. I used a large jar of dried beans, but you could use cans of tomatoes or an unopened bottle of oil or vinegar. The point is to weigh the fish down. Place in the fridge.

2

For each of the next three days, remove the weights and plastic wrap. Ladle the liquid over the fish. Put the plastic wrap back on and weigh the fish down.

3

The fish is then cured. Scrape off the excess dill and/or salt remaining on the fish. Some people like to wash the fish to remove any salty taste but that is a personal choice. Slice the salmon on an extreme bias, cutting it a thinly as possible. The fish will last for up to week in the fridge.

4

Serving gravlax: Traditional dark bread or pumpernickel, with a dollop of crème fraiche or sour cream, slices of salmon, radish, cucumber, chopped chives and there you have it!

Preserving Know-how/ Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Fruit Butters: History, Methods and Uses

Fruit butters are creamy, slow cooked fruit pulp combined with sugar or cider that turns dark and thick due to caramelization. Think about what would happen to apple sauce if you cooked it long and slow for hours and then you will have a sense of apple butter. Many fruits can be used for butter like peaches, grapes, quince, or strawberries, but generally fruit butters are made with Fall fruit like apples, pears, or plums.

Fruit butters were believed to have been introduced to North America by the Pennsylvania Dutch who settled in Pennsylvania and Ontario as early as the 1600s. Despite the name, these folks were not Dutch but of German-speaking countries like Switzerland, Germany, and Belgium. References to fruit butter making are recorded in Canada and the US around the mid 1800s. In the early days, large copper pots were put over a fire beginning with cider which was cooked until it was reduced to a third of the volume. Then apples were added and slow cooked for 12-15 hours. It was a family affair, with each person taking a turn at stirring the pot with a large wooden paddle to prevent scorching.  The purpose of the enterprise, of course, was to preserve fruit for the winter season.

There are many modern recipes for fruit butter. According to Oregon State University extension, any amount of fruit can be used. The basic process is:

  1. Wash, peel, and core fruit. Chop.
  2. Place in Dutch oven or large heavy bottom pot and add water or cider to just cover fruit. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook stirring frequently until the fruit is very soft. If desired, add spice to the cooking liquid like star anise, cinnamon, or cloves. For pear butter, you can use orange juice and zest as the cooking liquid instead of cider.
  3. Run the soft fruit through a food mill or fine sieve to obtain pulp.
  4. For each cup of pulp, add ½ cup of sugar.
  5. There are two options for cooking the pulp: One, is stove-top on low heat constantly stirring. The other is to cook the pulp in the oven at 275 degrees for about 3 hours stirring occasionally. Use a pan lined with parchment or foil.
  6. Check for doneness: The pulp will become dark and very creamy. Remove a teaspoon and put it on a cool plate. If no liquid appears around the edges of the pulp, it is done.
  7. The butters may be frozen but for long-term storage, process 250 ml jars in a water bath or steam canner for 10minutes adjusting for altitude. Rest for 5 minutes before removing from the canner.

Fruit butters are spreads that can be used like jam. They are also great as fillings between cake layers or sandwich cookies. For low-fat baked goods, use fruit butter to replace the fat in the recipe. As was historically the case, fruit butters provide an intensely flavoured spread, preserving autumn’s bounty for the winter months.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Fall/ Preserving Recipes

Carrot and Parsnip Soup with Cumin & Thyme

Carrot and Parsnip Soup with Cumin & Thyme

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This soup freezes very well. It is creamy but made without cream. The vinegar is important in this recipe to achieve balance as the root vegetables are sweet. This is a wonderful Fall or Winter soup.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb carrots, trimmed, peeled, and chopped
  • 1 lb parsnips, trimmed, peeled, and chopped
  • 2 litres vegetable broth
  • 2 TBSP olive oil
  • 1 large onion, peeled and diced
  • 1 clove garlic, grated using a micro plane or finely chopped
  • ¼ tsp hot chilli flakes
  • 1TBSP fresh thyme or 1 tsp dried
  • 1.5 tsp cumin
  • ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1

In a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Sauté onions stirring until translucent and soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and hot pepper flakes and stir one minute. Add the carrots, parsnips, and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are soft – about 25 minutes. Stir in cumin and thyme. Add in vinegar and stir. Adjust seasoning by adding salt and fresh ground pepper.

2

To serve: Place the soup in a bowl. Add a dollop of sour cream, crème fraiche and a sprinkle of chopped fresh thyme