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Preserving Recipes/ Spring

Cinco de Mayo

Cinco De Mayo

May is the month of celebrations around the world. In England, the Maypole, in France, Labour Day on May 1st, in North America, Mother’s Day. In Mexico, the Cinco de Mayo celebration on the 5th of May. Let’s take a trip to Mexico from a preserver’s perspective!

In 1862, the Mexican army, which was poorly armed, but determined, successfully defeated the well-armed French army and its colonial objectives. The “Cinco de Mayo” holiday celebrates Mexican culture, heritage, and pride. As with every celebration, food is always a central feature!

If we were celebrating in Mexico, we would be eating  Elotes or street corn which is grilled corn on the cob loaded with spicy crema(a bit like sour cream), cilantro and cotijo cheese (similar to feta). A squeeze of lime and yum! Tacos (meat, fish, or shrimp), enchiladas, tostados, and burritos, and always topped with pico de gallo (fresh tomato salsa), salsa verde, and fresh vegetables like shaved radish, cabbage and jalapeno. For the festivities, a sweet ending of churo (deep fried batter with cinnamon sugar) or something made with Dulce de Leche which literally means sweet milk – condensed milk that is slowly cooked into a caramel sauce. Let the party begin!

In anticipation of the preserving season, and if you want to celebrate Cinco de Mayo or just have a Mexican supper, there are some ideas. Wait to do the Elotes until our corn is ready. But honestly, the grilled and loaded corn is delicious! Mexicans almost always use corn tortillas rather than wheat. Corn tortillas are available at FreshCo, Baked and Pickled in Collingwood or occasionally at other grocery stores. If you are planning your preserving schedule, how about making a simple salsa such as the “House Salsa” from Bernardin. A very easy, don’t peel the tomatoes salsa that is flavourful and a great substitute for pico de gallo. Or, what about a Salsa Verde with tomatillos (always available at FreshCo or grown in our area)? I like the recipe from Ball which makes 6, 250ml  jars of sauce that is great with taco chips or as a base for enchiladas or burritos.

Roasted Salsa Verde (based on the Ball recipe)

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Celebrate May with a little trip to Mexico and join the country as it celebrates. It’s good fun to introduce different foods and cultures to the family. It’s also great to anticipate what you would like to preserve this coming season! Buen provecho!

Ingredients

  • 2 kg of tomatillos with their outer husks removed
  • 2 medium onions cut into 8 wedges
  • 2 jalapeno peppers
  • 6 cloves garlic
  • ½ cup lime juice
  • ¼ cup chopped cilantro
  • 2 tsp salt (pickling)
  • 1 tsp pepper

Instructions

1

Roast the first 4 ingredients in a 450-degree oven for 15 minutes. Position the tomatillos with the stem side down. The onion should be soft. Let cool until veggies can be handled. Then remove stems and seeds from peppers and tomatillos. Process all in a food processor or blender. Pour into a Dutch oven and add remaining ingredients. Bring to a simmer.

2

Ladle into hot 250 ml jars leaving a ½ inch headspace. Clean rims, apply lids and rings to finger-tip tight.

3

Process in a water-bath or atmospheric steam canner for 20 minutes adjusting for altitude. Let rest for 5 minutes. Remove, cool, label and store for up to 18 months as long as the seal remains in tack.

Preserving Recipes/ Spring

A Spring Fling

There is nothing like the lift spring brings to the spirit! Throughout the ages, across cultures and faiths spring has been celebrated with rituals and culinary traditions. Our ancient ancestors celebrated two seasons: dark and light. Spring, of course, leads us into lightness. At Stonehenge or at the ancient Mayan pyramids, the vernal equinox was and is still honoured. Whether you are celebrating Easter, Passover, spring Ramadan or nature’s journey into light, food is central to our rituals.

Eggs are very much part of meals that celebrate spring. They symbolize birth and renewal. Think about the Easter eggs, Ukrainian exquisitely painted eggs (Pysanky), Bosnia’s Festival of scrambled eggs, sweet Italian Easter bread with a coloured egg baked into it, a hard-boiled egg at the seder table, herbed eggs at the Nowruz meal in Iran or red dyed eggs at the Greek Easter table. There are countless examples of the symbolic importance of eggs in celebrating spring.

While eggs represent new life, fruit represents plenty, sweetness, health, and prosperity and is often served at spring celebratory meals. Chaat masala with fruit at the Iftar meal, dried fruits in Hot Cross Buns or other Easter breads, Haroset at the seder meal, or citrus fruit in southern European countries. In Canada, the sweetness of fruit is often provided by maple syrup our quintessential spring treat.

I’ve been planning my Easter meal and thinking about what I can use from my pantry and freezer. I’m slow braising lamb shanks (thanks to the Black Family Market), creamed Swiss chard with shallots from my garden which I froze, mashed potatoes also from my garden and stored in the garage. For dessert, I’m going simple with a maple syrup-based sauté of pears I canned in Fall. This recipe is a riff on one created by Canadian Trish Magwood.

In whatever way you bring in spring, enjoy our entry into light and celebrate rebirth, renewal and the bounty of nature and our pantries.

Maple Syrup Caramelized Pears on Ice Cream

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Ingredients

  • Yield 4 so double if you like
  • 2 TBSP butter
  • 2 TBSP maple syrup
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 2 pieces star anise
  • 2 cardamon pods
  • 4 inch stick cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp nutmeg
  • 2 TBSP brown sugar
  • 4 tsp fresh lemon juice
  • 500 ml jar of preserved pears
  • High quality vanilla ice cream (Chapmans)

Instructions

1

Drain the pears. If they are in half, cut lengthwise. Try to create equally sized very thick slices (imagine a small pear cut into quarters).

2

In a medium sized sauté pan add butter, maple syrup, vanilla, spices and let them simmer on low heat for about 5 minutes. Add brown sugar and lemon juice and mix in. Add the pears and simmer until they are warm and the sauce is syrupy.

3

Server warm pears over ice cream. The spices infuse a deep rich flavour to the syrup that coats the pears and spills over onto the ice cream. Yum!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Spring

The Victory Garden Revisited

Victory Garden Book

From 1917 to 1935, the First and Second World Wars spurred people on to grow food in what became known as Victory Gardens. The objectives were to improve food security, reduce dependence on food transportation systems badly impacted by gas shortages, and to inspire community resilience. When faced war, people leapt to the challenge of growing their own food.

The pandemic affected us in a similar way. The challenges of supply chain issues, food shortages and isolation led to a remarkable increase in home food production. There was a 24% increase in urban gardens and an almost 20% increase in young people who joined the home food production brigades.

In these difficult times we again face the impacts of war such as increasing gas prices, fertilizer shortages and the resulting significant rises in grocery prices. So, perhaps it’s time to revisit the idea of the Victory Garden. Anything we grow at home reduces reliance on commercial food systems, reduces waste, builds self-sufficiency, and improves the quality of food we eat. If you can preserve what you grow, even better!

Inspirations from the Victory Garden

Look for opportunities to grow something edible: This might sound easy, but it does take rethinking conventions. Some home gardens are very large and glorious. Some, like the potager gardens of France, are small and useful kitchen gardens generally filled with perennial herbs. But a tiny garden could be on a windowsill, a balcony, or a deck. Rather than thinking about large pots of flowers on the deck, how about planting edibles. Dwarf cherry tomatoes, herbs, leafy greens, dwarf peppers and staked peas can be just as lovely as traditional flowerpots.

Flower gardens don’t have to be reserved for flowers alone. Every garden is a chance to grow something edible. For flowers, try nasturtium, calendula, violas, and pansies (untreated of course). Pop perennial herbs into rock gardens or any garden like sage, lavender, lemon balm, hyssop anise, bergamot, tarragon, and mint. Bonus: Your garden looks beautiful; the flowers adorn summer dishes and herbs will dry easily at the end of the season.

Rethink your property: If you have some property, large or small, rethink where you could grow food. Consider planting a dwarf pear or apple tree. Need a shrub? How about planting currants, blackberries, raspberries, or hazelnuts? Possibly an elderflower shrub for both the flowers and berries? Nothing like an elderflower cordial on a hot summer day.

The Victory Garden as an idea to build resilience, provide high quality nutrition and reduce reliance on commercial food systems seems as relevant today as it did during World War I and II. Embrace the opportunities to re-envision where food can be grown. For inspiration, visit Fiddlehead Nursery (edible perennials) north of Kimberley and the David Suzuki Foundation website “living green”.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

www.thevalleypreservery.ca

Preserving Know-how/ Preserving Recipes/ Spring/ Summer

The Gift of Rhubarb

Rhubarb

If you have been reading my column for long, you already know rhubarb is probably my favorite spring gift from the garden. It is packed with calcium and Vitamin K, is gorgeous in colour, and can be used in both sweet and savoury recipes. It has also been used for medicinal purposes in cultures around the world for the last 3,000 years. I’m always on the look-out for ways to cook with and preserve rhubarb.

Harvesting: The petioles or stalks are the portion of the plant used for culinary purposes. As you no doubt are aware, the leaves are poisonous due to their high levels of oxalic acid. The stalks are “pulled” not cut which helps keep the plant producing. If you can’t immediately use the stalks, clean, trim and refrigerate.

Canniing: Rhubarb is very acidic (pH 3.1) so it is excellent for water bath or steam canning. Stewed or cooked with a small amount of water, a 500 ml jar with ½ inch headspace should be processed for 15 minutes adjusting for altitude. Rhubarb canning recipes abound. They may include jams, jelly, grilling sauces, chutney, marmalade, conserves, and compotes.

Freezing: Rhubarb freezes very well. It can be cleaned, trimmed, cut into small pieces and frozen raw or blanched and first. Some people enjoy freezing rhubarb in syrup.

Drying: Rhubarb can be dried and later pulverized into powder. The powder adds a punch to sauces, meat preparations, stews, and soups. Rhubarb alone with combined with strawberries make great fruit leathers. You can use the pulp remaining after you extract the juice for jelly or drinks. For each 1 cup pulp add 1 cup honey or sweeten to your taste. The leathers may be dried in a dehydrator or in an oven on warm with the door propped open. When they are dry and leathery, allow them to fully dry, cut into strips and wrap in plastic wrap. Store in a cool, dark place.

This week I stumbled on an interesting recipe on the Bernardin website (not in the book).

This is rhubarb season so jump into the many possibilities of cooking with and preserving this vegetable!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Spring Celebration Jam

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Ingredients

  • 2 cups crushed strawberries (about a quart)
  • ½ cup packed fresh mint leaves
  • ¾ cup water
  • 1 ¾ cups finely chopped rhubarb (about ½ lb)
  • 1 TBSP lemon juice (bottled)
  • 7 cups granulated sugar
  • 1 pouch liquid pectin

Instructions

1

Prepare 7 250ml jars (washed and kept hot)

2

Wash strawberries, remove stems and crush one layer at a time to measure 2 cups.

3

In a pot, combine mint leaves and water. Bring to a boil, turn off heat and let the “tea” steep for 10 minutes. Strain, removing the leaves.

4

Finely chop rhubarb or use a food processor get a fine chop. Add the rhubarb to the mint water. Return to the boil and cook about 2 minutes to soften the rhubarb. Add strawberries, lemon juice and sugar. Bring the mixture to a full rolling boil for 1 minute. Stir in the liquid pectin, mixing well and skim.

5

Ladle into jars leaving a ¼ inch headspace. Wipe jar rims clean. Affix lids and rings to finger-tip tight. Process in a water bath or steam canner for 10 minutes. Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Remove jars and let them sit undisturbed for 24 hours. Check seals.

Preserving Recipes/ Spring

Ramping It Up for Mother’s Day

Leeks

May 12th will mark Mother’s Day and spring is in the air. Let’s celebrate with the first gift of spring – wild leeks and a perfect Mother’s Day breakfast.

The honouring of mothers is an ancient tradition celebrated throughout the centuries in cultures around the world. The ancient Phrygian festival of “Cybele” honoured the great “Mother”. In the Middle Ages the custom was for those who moved away to revisit their mothers on Laetare Sunday – the 4th Sunday of Lent. First Nations peoples honour mothers every day! In India, the Druga festival is dedicated to mothers. In North America, Mother’s Day is said to be attributed to three women who were activists for peace, social welfare, and health. They were Ann Reeves Jarvis, Julia Ward Howe (also author of the protest song “The Battle Hymn of the Republic) and Ann’s daughter Anna Jarvis. Thanks to these women, Mother’s Day was declared in Canada in 1915 on the second Sunday of May.

As wild leeks are out, why not incorporate them into your Mother’s Day menu? I love wild leeks but consider them a real treasure as they are dangerously over-harvested in many parts of Canada and the US. Their slow seven-year cycle to mature means it’s incredibly important to sustainably harvest – take no more than one quarter of a clump. I now harvest a few leeks for a couple of meals, a bit of pesto for winter and possibly mix them with other vegetables for a quick refrigerator pickle.  Love them but protect them! Here’s a wonderful way to celebrate spring and Mother’s Day.

Happy Mother’s Day to all of you who care for children, the aged, our planet and the welfare of others.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Wild Leek Baked Eggs

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Blanch the leek leaves in boiling water for 1 minute. Place on a paper towel to drain. Sauté chopped and lightly salted wild leek bulbs in butter very slowly until soft and translucent. In a bowl, beat eggs, cooled sauteed wild leeks, cream, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and cheeses. Heavily grease 4 – 6 ramekins. Line the bottom of the ramekins with the wild leek leaves. Pour in egg mixture. Bake in a 350 over for 25 minutes. The centres should still giggle. Cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temp. These are also delicious the following day. The recipe can be doubled. Add some fresh bread or scones, and salad for the brunch menu and there you have it!

Ingredients

  • 1 small bunch of wild leeks thoroughly cleaned and trimmed. Separate the leaves from the bulbs.
  • 2 TBSP butter and more for greasing the ramekins or baking dish
  • 1 cup cream (or half and half)
  • 3 eggs
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • ¾ cup grated Gruyere cheese or other sharp cheese
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ¼ tsp pepper
Preserving Know-how/ Spring

Sugar and Other Sweeteners in Canning

Role of Sugar

When we preserve foods, the two main goals are safety and quality. Sugar does not play a key role in food safety, but it does play a significant role in preserving quality especially for long-term storage. Sugar helps fruit and vegetables retain colour, taste, and texture. It can enhance flavour or provide balance to acid which is why it is often added in small amounts to pickled products. Sugar, as a carbohydrate, is a thickener. When crushed fruit is left to ‘marinate’ with sugar for 24hrs, the sugar moves into the cells of the fruit removing the air. This prevents ‘floating fruit’ in jam recipes. Sugar plays important roles in canning but many people are interested in reducing or eliminating it altogether. What are the options?

Reducing Sugar

The canning of fruit is generally done in a sugar syrup which may range in sugar content from ‘heavy’ to ‘ultra-light’. It is possible to reduce sugar in syrups or use fruit juice instead. It is even possible to safely can fruit in water, but it will affect quality.

Another way to reduce or eliminate sugar is by using low-methoxyl pectin known as no or low-sugar pectin. Pomona, Ball, Certo, SureJell, and Bernardin all produce this type of pectin. Recipes are developed specifically for use with this type of pectin. For example, check out the Bernardin website (www.bernardin.ca) for a selection of recipes. These recipes use Bernardin’s no/low sugar pectin and unsweetened fruit juice. Many recipes using low-methoxyl pectin refer to  jams as “spreads” because of the difference in texture.

Using Less Processed Sugar

Honey, agave, and maple syrup are also alternatives to processed sugar. Ontariohoney.ca recommends using 1 cup honey to 3 cups water for a light syrup for canning fruit. They also suggest substituting half the amount of sugar in each jam/jelly recipe with honey. If the recipe calls for 4 cups of sugar, use 2 cups of honey. The use of commercial pectin is needed when making this substitution and the set will be softer than you would get with sugar. A small amount of Agave syrup may be added to water when making a syrup for canning fruit. Agave flavour is enhanced through heat processing so using a small amount if advised. Maple syrup may be substituted for ¼ of the sugar if using low/no sugar pectin.

Using Non-Nutritive Sweeteners

Non-nutritive (artificial) sweeteners may be safely used in canning. While aspartame is destroyed by heat and is therefore not used in canning, others like Sucralose (Splenda) and Stevia are heat stable and may be used. On the science-based website “Healthy Canning” (www.healthycanning.com) there are several recipes specifically developed for use with liquid Stevia and Splenda. These recipes all use low-methoxyl pectin.

The Take-Aways

If you want or need to reduce or eliminate processed sugar from your canning efforts, there are alternatives using both nutritive and non-nutritive options. These options are safe but will not offer the same benefits of sugar in terms of preserving quality- taste, texture, and colour. As always, choose recipes from reputable sources that have been developed in test kitchens.

For information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

 

 

 

Preserving Know-how/ Spring

Innovations in Canning Equipment

Are beginning to plan for the canning season? Part of preparing for the season is reviewing your canning equipment. In this article I am going to focus on what’s new in canners.

A Review of Acidity

In the canning world, a distinction is made between high and low acid foods. High acid foods are those that are naturally acidic or have been properly acidified so that the pH is 4.6 or lower. Most fruits and pickled products fall into this category. Low acid foods include meat, fish, poultry, game, and vegetables that have a pH higher than 4.6 on the pH scale. High acid food can be safely processed in either a water-bath or atmospheric steam canner. Low acid foods must be canner in a pressurized environment to ensure the temp reaches 240 degrees which is enough to kill the bacteria associated with botulism. Acidity determines the type of canners that will suit you.

High Acid Canning: Water-Bath and Atmospheric Steam Canner Innovations

While water-bath canning may be done in a large stock pot, people often have dedicated pots, or canners. Some years ago, Ball and FreshTech came out with an electric canner. The new iteration of the electric water-bath canner is a digital version that guides you through the proper steps of canning. Enter the ‘smart’ canner!

Many people are fans of atmospheric steam canners because they require only a small amount of water which makes them light-weight, water efficient and easy to use. Victorio introduced a steam canner with a dial gauge making it simple to assess when the steam is sufficient to begin the processing time. One of the limitations of steam canning is that the small amount of water can evaporate with longer processing times (tomatoes or pickled beets). Addressing this issue, Victorio has come out with a canner that is both an atmospheric steam and water-bath canner! The Harvest brand also produces one. If you’re in the market for a canner, this version is super useful and inexpensive.

Low Acid Canning: Pressure Canner Innovation

If you do pressure canning, you know there are two types of canners: Dial-gauge and weighted gauge. Both require careful attention to the pressure, altitude, and processing times. Companies like All American and Presto have many options from small to large.

One innovation is Presto’s introduction of a pressure canner suitable for use with induction stoves by adding a stainless steel-clad base. Since induction stoves are popular, this is an important addition to pressure canning.

Recently, Presto released a digital pressure canner it claims is USDA approved. In truth, the USDA doesn’t approve appliances, but it does approve of methods of processing. Presto is a reputable company with decades of experience with pressure canners. This canner guides you through each step of the canning process. It determines the venting time, automatically adjusts for altitude, holds the pressure at the desired level, and puts a timer on the cool-down phase. For folks who are nervous about pressure canning, this product could help ease your fears. Bonus, this canner can also be used as a water-bath canner!! The downside is it is very expensive.

More and more people are growing and preserving food at home. This trend is influencing product manufacturers who are introducing innovations unheard of in the past.

 

For more information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

 

 

Preserving Recipes/ Spring

Crème Fraiche

Creme Fresh

Fermentation is one of the main forms of food preservation and one of the oldest. Crème Fraiche is an example of a simple dairy ferment. It is also one of the most useful items to have in your fridge.

Crème Fraiche is a fermented cream as opposed to yogurt which is a fermented milk. It originated in Normandy, France, a northern region known for grazing cows, beautiful butters, and cream products. Crème Fraiche is so precious to the French, that in 1986 the French government instituted the status of “Appellation D’origine Controlee” which regulates that Crème Fraiche must only be made by traditional methods. This action was taken to avoid commercial manufacturing additions of stabilizers and thickeners which are allowed in North America.  Common additives to Crème Fraiche and sour cream in North America include corn starch, cellulose gel, carrageenan cellulose gum and more. So why not choose the pure and simple path and make your own Crème Fraiche?

As a simple ferment, Crème Fraiche is easy to make at home. It is simply heavy cream cultured with buttermilk. When left at room temperature, it becomes a thick, creamy substance that is excellent in both savoury and sweet dishes. It is not tangy like sour cream but has a smooth, almost lightly nutty flavour. Because of the high butter fat content, Crème Fraiche will not separate when added to hot or acidic foods which is a huge bonus for the home chef.

Add a dollop of Crème Fraiche to soups or stews. Add to a tomato sauce to make it creamy. Serve on baked eggs or with mashed or baked potatoes. Make an instant Mexican crema by adding grated lime zest and a healthy squeeze of lime juice to the Crème Fraiche. Perfect for the fish tacos.

Crème Fraiche is also wonderful on the sweet side of things. Use it in baking such as with sweet breads, scones, or tea biscuits. Top a fruit tart. Serve with a slice of pie or cake. Since you will have left-over buttermilk, how about lightly sweetening crème fraiche with a small amount of sugar, honey, or maple syrup. Think about how you enjoy your whipped cream. Some like it very sweet and others like just a hint of sweetness. Treat the crème fraiche the same way. For Easter morning, how about buttermilk pancakes or waffles topped with sweetened crème fraiche and fruit?

Crème Fraiche is delicious, simple to make and far superior to anything you can buy in the grocery store labelled as “crème fraiche” or “sour cream”. Become a fermenter and try it!

For information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Crème Fraiche

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Ingredients

  • 1 cup heavy cream (35%)
  • 3 TBSP butter milk

Instructions

1

Combine in a bowl. Cover with a cotton lint-free tea towel and place on the counter for 24 to 36 hours. If your house is cool, the fermentation takes a bit longer. You will know it’s done when it is a thick, creamy substance that smells sweetish. Easy! It will last in the fridge for about 10 days.

 

Preserving Recipes/ Spring

Clear Out the Freezer Chutney

Chutney Recipe

It’s been a strange non-winter to be sure. I noticed my daffodils and hyacinths up by at least two inches! The only thing I can say is that this warm weather has got the spring-cleaning bug stirring in me. Last season, my rhubarb seemed to continue forever! I had frozen a lot of it. The spring-cleaning bug got me thinking about how to use the rhubarb now.

I searched my preserving books and found a Bernardin recipe for Orange-Rhubarb Chutney. I made the chutney yesterday. My husband exclaimed “that smells so good” and the taste test went equally well. It’s interesting how a culinary tradition, in this case chutney throughout east Asia, found it’s way to many cultures around the world, each customizing it to local flavours. The origin of the term chutney is attributed to the Hindi language to the word “chatni” meaning a complex mixture of spices and flavours. The Bernardin recipe delivers on complex flavours and a tang that is brought forward from the vinegar and citrus. It would be excellent with meat, but I paired it with goat cheese. The tangy condiment beside creamy got cheese was divine.

As spring approaches, it’s time to use up the fruits and vegetables you froze for winter. If you are like me, you still have rhubarb in the freezer, and this is an excellent way to use it.

For more information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Orange-Rhubarb Chutney

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Yield: 6 250ml Jars

Ingredients

  • Spice bag made with cheesecloth: 10 whole peppercorns, 1 TBSP mustard seed, 1 TBSP pickling spice. Set aside.
  • 4 TBSP orange zest and 2/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 6 cups rhubarb, fresh or frozen
  • 5 cups lightly packed brown sugar
  • 3.5 cups cider vinegar
  • 3 cups chopped onions
  • 1.5 cups raisins
  • 2 TBSP finely chopped or grated garlic
  • 2 TBSP grated ginger root
  • 1 TBSP curry powder
  • 1 tsp ground allspice

Instructions

1

In a large Dutch oven, combine orange zest, juice, rhubarb, brown sugar, vinegar, onions, raisins, garlic, and ginger. Bring to a boil over medium heat stirring regularly. Reduce heat and gently boil, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes. Add curry powder, allspice and spice bag to the mix and cook an additional 30 minutes. Note: I had to increase the cooking time by 40 minutes to evaporate the liquid enough to get a consistency that mounds on a spoon.

2

Remove spice bag. Ladle into hot jars. Remove air bubbles. Ensure a ½ inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean. Adhere lids and rings so that screw-bands are tightened to “finger-tip tight”.

3

Process in a water bath or atmospheric steam canner for 10 minutes adjusting for altitude. Rest jars for 5 additional minutes before removing to a heat-proof surface to cool.

4

This chutney will be enhanced by a couple of weeks to allow all the flavours to marry. But if you can’t wait, go for it. It is excellent straight out of the pot!

 

 

Preserving Recipes/ Spring

Chili Sauce, Eh?!

Chili Sauce

The mere mention of chili sauce in the last article sparked a lively conversation about our favorite condiment. Last summer I was scouring my preserving cookbooks and noticed there were no chili sauce recipes in any of my American books. I took to the internet and again found no recipes. Turns out, chili sauce as we know it, is as Canadian as poutine, back bacon, and Caesars.

References to chili sauce often refer to sauce made with hot chilies, something we call hot sauce, which has been around for 9 thousand years and embraced by most cultures around the world. But the chili sauce we mean has a quiet almost illusive history. The Culinary Historians of Canada published an article in 2010 titled “Ode to Chili Sauce”. After reviewing many North American cookbooks, the author concluded that chili sauce is indeed a Canadian phenomenon. I did find one reference to chili sauce in Maryland during the mid 19th century, likely being exported from Canada. It was introduced to “jazz up the winter menus of Yankees” (Maryland Food History News). Still chili sauce never made its way into celebrated American cookbooks.

For we Canadians, chili sauce refers to a condiment made of chopped tomatoes with vegetables like onions, celery, and peppers, sweetened with brown or white sugar, given a tang with white or apple cider vinegar and slow-cooked and infused with spices. Whether you like it sweet, or hot, In the end, all chili sauce is amazing with meat or slathered on eggs.

I have made many recipes for chili sauce but last summer I used Bernardin’s recipe. It is bright in taste and not too sweet with just the right heat. It is possible to use tinned tomatoes, fresh and blanched tomatoes or frozen (no blanching required as the skins pop off after freezing). These options mean you can make chili sauce the whole year through!

Thanks for sharing your chili sauce stories!

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

Chili Sauce Yield 7 x 250ml jars

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Ingredients

  • 12 cups chopped, seeded, cored tomatoes (2.7 kg); drain away excess liquid and then measure
  • 2 cups each chopped onions and green peppers
  • 1 cup chopped red peppers
  • 2 TBSP jalapeno peppers minced
  • 1.5 cups white vinegar
  • 1.5 cups granulated sugar
  • 1 tsp pickling salt
  • Spice bag made of: 4 inch piece cinnamon, one bay leaf, 2 tsp mustard seed, 1 tsp celery seed, ½ tsp each of whole cloves, black peppercorns
  • 2 garlic cloves minced
  • ½ tsp ground ginger and ground nutmeg

Instructions

1

Combine tomatoes, peppers, onions, vinegar, sugar, and salt in large pan. Prepare spice bag using cheesecloth and tied with string. Place in tomato mixture securing the string to the side of the pan. Bring to a boil, stirring regularly. Boil for about 2 hours until reduced by about half. Stir in garlic, ginger, and nutmeg during last 15 minutes of cooking.

2

Ladle into hot jars, removing air bubbles and leaving a ½ inch headspace. Wipe jar rim clean and affix lids and rings tightening to “finger-tip” tight. Process in boiling water bath or atmospheric steam canner for 15 minutes adjusting for altitude. Let rest 5 minutes in canner. Remove jars to heat proof surface and allow them to cool for 24 hours.