Tis the season for these gorgeous fruits. Another example of our food that has a 4,000 year history that originated in the Far East. While some culinary traditions use apricots in savory dishes, Europeans and North Americans are more accustomed to sweeter applications. Last week, I made several batches of apricot recipes – jams, preserves and a most delicious salsa!
Some Thoughts About Jams and Preserves
Apricots are high in acidity but moderately low in pectin. These factors apply to approaches to jam-making.
Factor 1: Sugar
In France, apricot jam is the quintessential accompaniment to a warm, buttery croissant. And they like the jam tart. You will find recipes with as much as 50% sugar to fruit (sweet version) to very little sugar. The sweetness is a personal preference, but sugar is necessary for safe, long-term storage that preserves quality. I have settled on a 3:2 ratio (3 cups chopped fruit which is about 1 pound of whole apricots to 2 cups sugar). When not using commercial pectin, you can adjust your batch size. I used 6 cups prepared fruit to 4 cups sugar for most apricot jams and preserves.
Factor 2: Pectin
Even though apricots are low in pectin, I don’t recommend the use of commercial pectin even though there are recipes that use it. A longer cooking time softens the fruit making it into a lovely spreadable texture. To activate pectin, add lemon juice in a ratio of 1.5 teaspoons per cup of prepared chopped fruit. In most batches, this amounts to about 3-4 TBSP lemon juice. Lemon juice also enlivens the flavour. If you like, you can also add 1 grated Granny Smith apple which will boost the pectin and extend the volume.
Factor 3: Maceration
I recommend macerating the fruit-sugar mixture including lemon juice and grated apple if using. Let the mixture sit for 4 hours or covered in the fridge overnight. Maceration draws out the juices from the fruit, softens the cell walls and intensifies the flavour. It also speeds up the cooking time.
Factor 4: Cooking
As with any long-boil cooking method, you need to assess the set-point. This can be done using the wrinkle test by putting a teaspoon of cooked fruit on a frozen plate and run your finger across. If it wrinkles, it’s done. I also put my candy thermometer in the pot and use it as a general gauge. When the temperature is approaching 217 or so, I start to test the jam/preserve. The temperature of 220 is the set-point, but I never let it go that long or it will over cook during the processing period of 10 minutes in the water-bath or atmospheric steam canner adjusting for altitude and a 5 minute rest period.
Apricot jam or preserves welcome other flavours like vanilla or almond extracts, Amaretto or rum. Apricots enjoy the company of aromatic spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. I made one batch with stepped lavender. The add-ins, if any, are up to you.
We are right into the preserving season. How wonderful to be getting fresh Ontario fruit to work with. Enjoy your time in the kitchen!
Martha Rogers
Certified Master Food Preserver
preservingwithmartha@gmail.com
www.thevalleypreservery.ca
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