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Preserving Know-how/ Winter

Tomatoes in Winter

Tomatoes in Winter

Tomatoes in Winter

If you’re a preserver, this is a great time of year to crack out the tomatoes in whatever form you have them. Like many of you, I can, dry, freeze, or turn them into a pesto-like format after roasting with garlic and olive oil. My motto is “never waste a tomato” regardless of season.

Being over-loaded with frozen roasted tomato sauce I made deliveries to friends and my daughter-in-law. Of course, the tomato sauce is delicious with pasta, but my daughter-in-law asked about ideas for using the sauce without pasta (New Year’s resolution!). So, here is what I shared.

Tomato Sauce

Use your own tomato sauce or begin with canned or frozen tomatoes, seasoned, and reduced to a thick sauce. Add fresh or dried herbs such as parsley, basil, oregano. The recipes below are for two, but you can double or triple the size depending on the number of mouths you are feeding.

Tomato Poached Halibut or Cod

Place one cup tomato sauce in a skillet. If too thick to simmer without burning, add a couple of TBSP of water. Cut the fish into 3-4 oz pieces. Season them with salt and pepper. Put them in the simmering sauce and cook for about 8 minutes with the lid on. Spoon sauce over top.

Mediterranean Shrimp

Prepare sauce as above. Add ½ tsp of oregano. Once simmering, place cleaned and deveined large shrimp into the pan in a single layer. Cook for 3 min and flip. When you flip the shrimp add crumbled feta cheese (about 1 oz per person). Cook for another 3 min. The feta will melt making a creamy sauce. Serve fish or shrimp with salad, bread or atop of rice.

Quick Baked Parmesan

Slice zucchini and eggplant in long strips. Salt the eggplant for 15 minutes. Put veggies on parchment paper and bake at 400 until they are cooked with crispy edges. Put the sauce under and over the veggies in layers like lasagna. Top with fresh mozzarella and a hefty sprinkle of parmesan. Bake 20 min or until the cheese is melted. 

Poached Eggs in Tomato Sauce

Many cuisines around the world have a recipe for poached eggs in tomato sauce. In Mexico, you will find the delicious dish called “divorced eggs” using both tomato and tomatillo sauces. In Africa and Israel, the Shakshuka is a dish of poached eggs in spicy tomato sauce often with chopped vegetables, cumin, hot peppers and feta cheese. The dish is served in the cast iron or other frying pan with sour dough bread to mop up all the yummy sauce and eggs. You can create your own version of poached eggs in tomato sauce and serve for breakfast or dinner.

Tomatoes are most wonderful in the summer and early fall but having them in the pantry or freezer through the winter months is not only handy, but cost-effective and healthy. This is the season to celebrate the versatility of this fruit. Enjoy.

Share your ideas for tomato sauce without pasta! Send them along to me at:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

 

 

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Preserving Know-how/ Winter

Soup’s On!

Soup

We’ve certainly had some remarkable weather ups and downs, but we know the New Year will bring cold temperatures, snow and a desire hunker down. How better to enjoy winter than with a steaming hot bowl of soup and some homemade bread?

According to culinary history, the word soup dates to post-classical Latin “suppare” or soak. The term later appeared in the French language as “soupe”. In the Middle Ages cooks spoke of soup as any liquid that was poured over bread. The word supper is also derived from this term. In general terms, “soup” applies to any liquid, savoury dish. All cultures have soup as a culinary foundation.

If you’re going to the effort of making a big batch of soup, why not make extra for later use? To preserve soup, there are basically three methods: Freezing, dehydrating or pressure canning.

Freezing

The easiest, least time-consuming method is to freeze. Freeze soups in a wide-mouth Mason jar or food grade plastic freezer container. Leave an inch headspace to allow for expansion. To prevent ice crystal formation, crinkle up some parchment paper and place it on top of the soup. Always cool the soup, then refrigerate before freezing. Label and date the frozen soup. Thaw in the fridge and heat to 165 degrees before serving.

Dehydrating

Most of us have bought a “Cup of Soup” or Lipton package of soup. These are examples of dehydrated soups, and this can be done at home. One approach is to dehydrate vegetables, cooked rice or potatoes, and seasoning. Rehydrate in boiling water. Broth and soups can also be dehydrated after reducing to a condensed or pureed form and then laying out on a Silpat sheet or parchment lined rack in the dehydrator as you would do when making fruit leathers. The dehydrated broth can be ground into a powder or simple broken up into pieces and stored in a cool, dark, dry place. The dehydrated soup puree can be stored as you would a fruit leather.

Pressure Canning

Because soup is made with low acid foods like vegetables, meat, poultry, and fish, pressure canning is necessary for safe long-term storage. Pressure canning raises the internal temperature to 240 degrees which is required to kill heat resistant bacteria such as those that cause botulism. Always follow reputable recipes and proper methods (see Bernardin, National Center for Home Food Preservation or refer to “So Easy to Preserve”). There are many soups suitable for pressure canning making instant meals easily accessible from the pantry in a matter of minutes. Do not pressure can soups made with pasta, rice, flour, cream, milk, or any thickening agents as these agents interfere with heat penetration and therefore safety. You can add them just before serving if you wish.

Winter is the time for hot soup and crusty bread. Home-made stocks and broths, hearty chowders, simple garden vegetables or instant soup mixes ready for winter camping can all be available for quick suppers, lunches, or picnics. Call the family: “Soups on”.

 

 

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Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano

Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano
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Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano

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This is a great dinner in a bowl soup. Delicious and filling.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups corn
  • 1 carrot, peeled and chopped into small dice
  • 1 celery stalk chopped into small dice
  • 1 potato (Yukon Gold or red) chopped into small dice
  • 1 roasted Poblano pepper chopped fine
  • 1 small white onion chopped fine
  • 1 TBSP tomato paste
  • ½ tsp coriander
  • ½ tsp fresh thyme
  • Pinch of cayenne
  • 2 cups vegetable broth
  • 1 TBSP flour (regular or gluten free)
  • 2 TBSP butter
  • 1.5 cups milk
  • Top with chopped coriander and a squeeze of lemon or lime

Instructions

1

Roast the Poblano: on the BBQ, under the broiler or on top of the gas flame until blackened. Put the pepper in a bowl covered with plastic for 10 minutes to release the skin. Peel and chop.

2

In a Dutch oven, melt 1 TBSP butter and sauté the carrot, celery, onion, and potato until it sweats and softens. Add the tomato paste and poblano pepper and stir. Add in coriander, thyme, a pinch of cayenne. Push the vegetables to the side and melt in second TBSP of butter and flour. Mix for 1 minute. Add in heated broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the milk (warmed). Stir to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. For serving, add cilantro and a squeeze of lemon or lime. Some people also add toasted pumpkin seeds and/or cooked bacon or pancetta. It is entirely up to you.

3

If you are freezing this soup note that the milk will separate but as it warms during reheating, it will blend together again. To avoid this, omit the milk and freeze the soup. Add the milk before serving. Always warm liquids before adding to the soup to avoid curdling or separating.

 

 

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Preserving Know-how/ Winter

Celebratory Treats

Celebratory Treats

This is the season for special treats. Whether it’s Christmas day, a holiday party or bringing in the New Year, there are many reasons to celebrate. My recent preserving adventures have led to some wonderful new recipes.

Raspberry-Rhubarb Juice with Prosecco

My daughter-in-law created this special cocktail using the raspberry-rhubarb juice I made in the spring and summer. Think of this a pink Mimosa; pretty, festive, and delicious.  You can always use POM or raspberry juice as well. For a non-alcoholic version, replace Prosecco with sparkling water. For extra panache, drop in a fresh raspberry.

Cranberry Port Conserve with Walnuts

I recently made this recipe created by Topp & Howard. A conserve almost always includes nuts and often citrus. This is outstanding and would be a great accompaniment to turkey, chicken, or capon but also with ham, duck or beef.

4 cups cranberries 2 cups sugar

¼ cup Port ½ cup finely chopped orange peel

1/3 cup raisins ¼ cup chopped walnuts

Combine cranberries, sugar, and Port in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook uncovered until cranberries pop. Add orange peel and raisins. Reduce heat and cook for about 15 minutes until a light gel point is reached. Remove from heat and stir in nuts. For long-term storage, process in a water bath or atmospheric steam canner for 10 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes before removing from canner.

However you celebrate, enjoy the season. All the best for the holidays and Happy New Year.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

For more information:

Preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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Tarts: The Finishing Touch

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I love making small French-style tarts using my preserves. A couple of weeks ago I made tarts using my preserved pears, maple roasted rhubarb, apple sauce, and, of course, pear mincemeat (pictured here). In a recent Jamie Oliver show, he used ready-made tart shells and lined them with raspberry jam and topped them with a light meringue baked to golden colour. Tarts are easy, flexible and are part of any celebratory meal. I usually use a pate brisee for the crust but for the gluten free in my family, I searched for a recipe that would work. I adapted this pastry recipe from by Claire Tansey’s in her book called “Uncomplicated”. She calls this forgiving pastry and it is. It can be rolled out many times without getting tough. It also lasts well and is flavourful. The gluten-free version is very good.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 cups all-purpose gluten-free flour (or regular flour)
  • 1/8 tsp salt ½ cup cream cheese cold and cubed
  • ½ cup butter cold and cubed

Instructions

1

Combine flour and salt in food processor. Pulse to combine. Add cream cheese and butter and process until the dough comes together in a ball.  Wrap in plastic and chill for at least ½ an hour. Roll out or freeze this pastry for future use. Be creative using your own preserves from the panty.

 

 

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Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Getting Creative for the Holidays

There is no doubt that I get inspired at this time of year to create gifts from all the things I have preserved over the year. Why spend time in a mall when you can hunker down and make your own beautiful and delicious gifts? Here are some of the gifts I’ve been making so far in anticipation of gift-giving.

Dried Herbs

This year I have made Herbes de Provence, a mixture that is wonderful with chicken or sprinkled over roasted potatoes. I put the mix in cute little jars for gifts to my foodie friends. As always, I grow herbs for tisanes and teas. I found small bottles with corks for my ‘quiet spirit’, lemon balm, double mint, and anise and bergamot teas. Add a ribbon and you have a lovely gift for those who enjoy herbal soothing drinks. How about pairing a relaxing tea with lavender bath salts? Yup, my many lavender plants produce plenty of flowers for both cooking and for adding to Epsom salts and lavender essential oil. That’s a perfect way to indulge in a little self-time during the busy season.

The Christmas Meal

This year I put together gift boxes with Cranberry Sauce (with and without Port), Cranberry Mostarda and a package of dried herbs to add to make an onion-sage stuffing for the bird. It’s an all-in-one gift. The Cranberry Sauce is just one less thing to make for the hostess. The Cranberry Mostarda is an Italian condiment that blends mustard with cranberry and is delicious on turkey or ham sandwiches or with a grilled cheese. The herb mix can be thrown into the stuffing mix or used to season the turkey, chicken, goose, or capon.

Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas without mincemeat. It is the flavour of the season. I always make Pear Mincemeat (vegan) that is excellent for creating baked gifts or even as a stand-alone gift. I make pear mincemeat tarts, squares (think date square with mincemeat instead of dates), warm it and serve with ice cream or incorporate it into a Christmas morning muffin.

Hostess Gifts

Jams, jellies, and pickles are always welcome gifts at any time of year. For the holidays, I try to think about the people receiving the gifts. For the cheese-lovers, two or three wine jellies to accompany the cheese. For the meat lover, Peach-Ale mustard and White Wine, Sage, and Honey Mustard. For the pickle lover, a variety of pickles – dills, bread & butter, pickled carrots, asparagus, or beets. For the Caesar drinker, spicy pickled beans. For families, hot cocoa mix and homemade marshmallows.

This time of year inspires creativity and a desire to give something meaningful to friends and family. Let’s celebrate all the bakers, preservers and creators who keep traditions going and who keep the spirit of the season alive and well.

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

 

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Preserving Know-how/ Winter

Let it Snow

Mulling Spice Mix

With the first big snow under our belts, the motivation to plan for the Holidays is kicked into high gear. I find that one of the most wonderful things about preserving is using my skills and preserves for creative gifts. I thought I would focus a couple of articles on creating warm, delicious, and satisfying gifts and treats for the season.

Last week I dehydrated oranges and lemons for several purposes, one of which was to make mulling spice mix for gifts. The bonus is that the house smells divine as the citrus releases its aroma while drying. The dried fruit can be used to brighten up garlands or centre pieces, added to tea, used to embellish a cake, or simmered in a pot of water before guests arrive.

I was fascinated to read that mulled wine in particular dates to the Roman Empire where honey and spices were added to wine in winter. Many consider mulled wine or the wassail to be distinctly Victorian where it was considered a holiday drink celebrating health, happiness and warmth infused by spices and citrus. Mulled cider was and is considered a British winter celebration drink. The cider carries the apple taste which makes for a lighter beverage. Mulling was eagerly embraced by North Americans. Whether using wine or cider, adding mulling spices produces a flavourful warm winter drink perfect for snuggling up in front of the winter.

For more information:

Preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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Mulling Spice Mix

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Ingredients

  • ½ cup dried orange slices broken into small pieces
  • ½ cup dried lemon slices broken into small pieces
  • 6 sticks of 4-inch cinnamon broken into small pieces
  • 4 TBSP ground nutmeg
  • 12 whole cloves
  • 2 tsp cardamon pods
  • 2 TBSP allspice berries
  • 1 TBSP whole black peppercorns
  • 4 – 6 star anise

Instructions

1

Dry citrus using a dehydrator (125 for 10 hours) or in the oven on the lowest setting. Slices should be thin with seeds removed.

2

Mix the mulling spice mix together. Add 2 TBSP mix to 4 cups of cider or red wine and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain and serve with a cinnamon stick and/or the addition of a slice of fresh orange. This recipe produces about 3 cups. Store in airtight containers. This is a super hostess gift to give with the recipe attached.

3

If you are out-and-about, I will be at the Kimber Valley Farm Christmas Market on November 26th. Check out their website and drop by.

 

 

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Preserving Recipes/ Spring/ Winter

Preserving in Winter

Preserving in Winter

Many people think winter is ‘out-of-season’ as far as preserving goes. Try finding bottles, lids and other canning equipment in the dead of winter! But, there are those of us who just can’t stop preserving. And, why not? There are lots of options in winter if the larder is empty or the canning urge is great!

Winter fruits like apples, Anjou or Bosc pears, kiwi, figs or kumquats are available and ready to be transformed into jam, chutney, sauces or fruit butter. Mind you, there is also something simple and delicious about using the fruit naked. I’m thinking of a brown sugar and walnut stuffed baked apple or poached pears with a reduced port sauce. Fresh or preserved, winter fruit is a luxury we have in Ontario.

Dried fruits are also an option for preserving. For example, apricots or dried figs can be rehydrated and used in jams or preserves. Last winter I shared a recipe for dried apricot preserves which were great. Unfortunately, most dried fruits are treated with sulfites to preserve colour. So, if you are allergic to sulfites or are concerned about the preservative, buy organic and just accept the fact that the fruit will be dark as it naturally oxidizes. Alternatively, dehydrate your own fruit next summer pre-treating them with lemon juice, citric acid or ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) before dehydrating to slow down oxidization. Dried fruit can be wholesome and is great cooking and preserving in winter.

Frozen fruit is an excellent option for preserving when the snow flies. Using fruit you froze in summer or buying Canadian frozen fruit works extremely well for jam, conserves, syrups and more. I have used frozen peaches, strawberries, mixed berries, blueberries, cranberries and mango with great success. The advantage of frozen fruit is its availability of course, but also the fact you get perfectly ripe fruit and combinations of fruit that would not normally be out at the same time. Here is a simple recipe from the Canadian Living preserving book using mixed berries.

For further information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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Winter Berry Jam

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Ingredients

  • 2 packages frozen mixed berries (600 gm each) thawed and crushed
  • 2 tsp lemon zest                                                        
  • 1 TBSP bottled lemon juice
  • 1 package light pectin crystals                                   
  • 4.5 cups sugar
  • 2 TBSP Cassis or vodka (optional)

Instructions

1

Combine fruit, lemon zest & juice, ¼ cup sugar and pectin in a large pan. Bring to a boil over high heat stirring constantly. Add sugar and return to a boil. Boil hard for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Stir in alcohol if using.

2

Fill 1 cup jars (makes 7 cups) leaving ¼ inch headspace. Put on lids and screwbands. Process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Remove jars from canner placing on a cutting board or dishcloth. Allow jars to rest untouched for 24 hours.

3

As winter takes hold, enjoy the aroma of bubbling preserves filling the house on a wintery day.

 

 

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Preserving Recipes/ Winter

Citrus Curds

Continuing with the early winter citrus theme, in the last weeks I have been making and freezing curds. When citrus is easily available and not expensive, I like to freeze curds to have all year. On a Pavlova, in a tarte, between layer cakes, simply with fruit, a pound cake or yogurt, fruit curds are a silky, intensely flavoured and not too sweet custardy treat.

According to “British Food History”, the earliest references to curds appeared in 1844 in “The Lady’s Own Cookery Book”. At that time, the recipe was essentially acidulating the curds from cream making it more like a lemon cheese. Today curd recipes include any variety of citrus, a small amount of sugar, butter and eggs. For the Pavlova pictured here, I made lime curd with toasted coconut and fruit. If you prefer lemon, switch up the limes for lemons.

No time to make the Pavlova? Buy pre-made phyllo cups instead.

Citrus curds are like sunshine. Bright with flavour, smooth like a summer’s day and delicious any time of year.

For further information:

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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Lime Curd

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Ingredients

  • Lime Curd Ingredients:
  • 1 kg limes (or lemons) juiced to equal 1 cup juice
  • 2 TBSP lime zest
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  • 4 whole large eggs
  • 2 cup sugar
  • Pavlova Ingredients: (serves 4; double if you like)
  • 2 egg whites brought to room temperature
  • 1/8 tsp salt
  • 1/8 tsp cream of tartar
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 tsp corn starch
  • ½ tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp white vinegar

Instructions

1

Lime Curd: Beat softened butter and sugar until light gradually adding in one egg at a time. Add zest and juice to blend. It will appear curdled but don’t worry it will incorporate over heat. Place in a medium saucepan and gently cook on low heat whisking constantly for 15 – 16 minutes. The curd will thicken and coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. Cool. Put into container (I use 250 ml Mason jars) and put plastic wrap on top touching the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Cool completely. Refrigerate over-night unless using immediately. For freezing, ensure there is a 1-inch headspace. Put lids on label and date.

2

Pavlova: Preheat oven to 275. Place parchment on cookie sheet. Beat egg whites, salt and cream of tartar until whites hold a stiff peak. Gradually add sugar a tablespoon at a time beating until the whites are stiff and shiny. Beat in vinegar, corn starch & vanilla. Spoon onto the cookie sheet in a circle making the edges higher than the centre. Bake for about 1 hour. The outside of the meringue will be crisp and the inside soft. Once cool, put on a serving plate. Just before serving add the curd, fruit and/or whipping cream.

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Winter

Marmalade

marmalade

There are several theories about the origins of marmalade, a sweet jelly with suspended fruit rinds and chunks. Some say Mary Queen of Scots had seasickness and her French physician created a sugar-based citrus spread to help her. “Marie est malade” or Mary’s sickness became ‘marmalade’. Myth or fact, the likely origin is marmalade’s derivation from the Portuguese word for quince “marmelada”, a dense jelly eaten after a meal. By the 1600s marmalades were created with citrus and eaten in England and Scotland for breakfast.

Marmalade lovers are particular folk! Some like it runny, some firm; some like it bitter, some sweet. Some will tolerate the addition of vegetables, some absolutely will not. There are as many views about marmalade as there are recipes and methods. Over the years I have made marmalade with almost every citrus variety and even some vegetables. I’ve had successes and failures! Here are a few of my learnings.

Basic marmalade recipes call for the thinly slicing of the peel of citrus, removing of the white bitter pith, chopping the pulp and using the natural pectin of the seeds and fruit (put in a cheesecloth package). Some recipes add 1/8 tsp of baking soda to soften the peel, but I didn’t find this made a difference. I tried to speed up the process by using a recipe that added commercial pectin. Not helpful! It didn’t gel. The take-aways: develop skill at testing the “set point”; and remember, some good things in life take time and marmalade is one of them.

Set point can be determined a few ways such as the “wrinkle test” dropping hot marmalade on a frozen saucer or watching the mixture drop off a spoon as it transforms from liquid to thick droplets. I have concluded that a candy thermometer is the most accurate and reliable method. At sea level, the set point is 220 F but altitude affects boiling point and therefore set point. Even at 1000 ft, the set point is between 218 and 220 (I go for 218). But if you live at higher altitudes (Dundalk Highlands), the set point will be between 216 and 218. I would use the lower point as the marmalade continues to cook during water-bath processing. Another learning is that marmalade can take up to 48 hours to set up. So even if it looks loose give it 48 hrs before deciding whether to start over.

Marmalade for breakfast is wonderful but don’t just save it for mornings. It is also excellent as a glaze on meats, or as a dollop on ice cream, in a thumbprint cookie, or atop of a cheesecake. This is the time of year to embrace the marmalade challenge!

Want to learn more about canning?

Join me on Feb 3rd in a class offered by Agriculture Grey-Bruce via Zoom. To register: info@greyagservices.ca

preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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Winter

The Joy of Citrus

Citrus

Winter brings an array of citrus to grocery stores and often at a good price. Oranges, tangerines, Clementines, mandarins, lemons, Meyer lemons, limes and grapefruit delight the senses. There are so many ways to work with citrus, but here I’m focusing on salt and sugar curing, ancient methods of preserving. Both salt and sugar inhibit microbial growth by several means, but primarily by osmosis where water molecules join up with sugar or salt molecules reducing free water necessary for microbial growth. Salt and sugar also have anti-microbial actions, altering the enzymatic activity of microbes and weakening the molecular structure.

Salt-Curing: Preserved Meyer Lemons

January means making a jar of preserved lemons. Middle Eastern cuisine would not exist without preserved lemons. I prefer Meyer lemons but any (preferably organic) lemons will do. Opening, salting and ensuring the lemons are submerged in fresh lemon juice will preserve them in the fridge for a year. They add a fermented taste to recipes that fresh lemons cannot achieve. There are many simple recipes for preserved lemons on trust-worthy internet sites or contact me. Give them a try with chicken, in a bowl of couscous or in a vinaigrette.

Sugar-Curing: Candied Citrus Peel

We often think of candied peel at Christmas but did you know May 4th is National Candied Orange Peel Day? Who knew? Since winter is the time for citrus, why not try your hand at candying (aka sugar curing) the rinds? My friend and I reviewed many recipes so here are tips. Any citrus fruit with thick skins will work well (organic preferred). The key to making good peel is blanching the ¼ inch slices of peel in 4 cups of boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat this process again. This will remove the bitterness from the pith of the rind. Make a simple syrup (50% sugar to 50% water) about 2 cups each will be enough for a batch. Heat the syrup until the sugar is dissolved and then simmer the rind for 45 minutes. Remove rind and left drain on a rack for a couple of days. If you want, dust the rind with a small amount of superfine sugar. The rind will last for at least a month in an airtight container. Use it as a great sweet treat, in cakes, breads, muffins, puddings or as garnish. The syrup can also be kept in the fridge. Add a piece of rind and drizzle of syrup to a cup of tea or a scoop of yogurt.

Sugar and salt curing are two ways to preserve citrus fruit when it comes into season. Expand your winter culinary activities and make preserved lemons and candied citrus peel.

For information:
preservingwithmartha@gmail.com

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